Monthly Archive for February, 2007

Malted Pancakes

For a long time, Clarks on Belmont was our favorite place to get breakfast. When we moved to Lincoln Square, it just wasn’t as convenient, so our visits dropped off. Our favorite thing to get there were the pancakes. It took us a while to figure out why they tasted so much better than other places. After some subtle investigation (we asked the waitress) we found out they used malt in their batter.

For years, we occasionally tried to recreate the Clarks pancakes. We added malted milk, malt syrup, malt extract, anything that had the word “malt” in it. Malt is a tricky devil. The wikipedia article on malt explains, “Malting is a process applied to cereal grains, in which the grains are made to germinate and then are quickly dried before the plant develops.” Malt is used in lots of things: beer, whiskey, movie theater candy, and pancakes.

After countless experiments, we pretty much gave up. Then, out of the blue, we ran across Carbon’s Golden Malted Pancake Flour in the speciality food section of the Costplus World Market in Evanston. Giddy, we whipped up a few batches. All of them turned out great.

Mystery solved. If you want malted pancakes, try out the flour that specifically says “malted pancake flour.” Duh. We’re still going to try and make the flour for ourselves, as we’re ornery like that, but for now, we have a good go-to for pancake-Saturdays.

Snow, Snow, Ambrosia?

Chicago is buried under a couple of inches of snow this week. I’ve been getting up every morning to shovel our sidewalk. It’s been a lot of work, but not all bad. Because we leave so early in the morning, I’m usually shoveling around 6:15 am. The sun is just starting to peek over the horizon around then. It’s quiet, no one else is shoveling, and the snow throws a lot of sparklies. A little quiet labor that early in the morning isn’t so bad.

Food-wise, we sure miss our Honeycrisp apples. Normally, we wouldn’t even be thinking about them around this time of year, except Jewel started to stock Ambrosia apples, which are an awful lot like Honeycrisps, but not quite. Just like Honeycrisps, Ambrosia’s are one of the newish super-apples developed by mad-cross-breeding-scientists in the 80’s and 90’s. For a little more information on Ambrosia apples, check out the government write-up.

Hummus Among Us

It’s 2007, hummus is like a 1987 burrito, still sort of a teeny bit on the edge of common American food. Almost everyone has had it, but you’ll occasionally run into someone who’s never heard of the stuff. Seriously, it’s rare, but it does happen.

Hummus, wikipedia tells us, is “a dip made of chickpea paste and tahini (sesame seed paste), with flavorings such as olive oil, garlic, paprika, and lemon juice.” Hummus, like many words of Arabic origin, has a few different spellings. These: houmous, hommus, hummous or humus, are all the same. You can find tubs of it at Jewel for a couple of dollars. However, making your own is easy, fun, and gives you lots of room for experimentation.

Camri first started making her own hummus in high school. Camri bought the book, Cooking with the Dead, just a few short weeks before Jerry Garcia died. She’s sort of a hippy. That book is pretty fun, it’s a bunch of recipes from people that followed the Dead around. There’s a lot of vegetarian recipes in there, lots of grilled cheese, lots of things with beans. The stories are the best part though. Nothing quite like a bunch of dead-heads explaining why they chose to make their hummus with paprika. It’s intense.

The recipe that Camri based her hummus on is courtesy of a dead-head named, ahem, Amilius (his name means “Spark from the Light of God”). Amilius explains that, “[he] began making hummus sandwiches because he felt it was important to sell healthy food, because that was what he was committed to eating himself.” Thanks Amilius.

So, young High School hippy Camri took Amilius’ recipe and made it. She liked it. She discovered that hummus is a blank slate. It begs to be fiddled with. Over the next ten years she toyed with the recipe until she finally found what she believes to be hummus perfection. Here is her formula, she presents it to you because she “feels it’s important to sell healthy food, because that was what she was committed to eating herself”:

In a mini food processor combine the following until a creamy hummus'y consistency is achieved:
1 can garbanzo beans (drained and rinsed)
1/4 cup Tahini
1/4 cup lemon juice (or the juice of 2 lemons)
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons olive oil
dill, oregano, cayenne, thyme, salt and pepper
Serving suggestions: pita chips, pretzels,
hummus sandwiches with feta, green peppers,
red peppers, onions, or a Daily Bar & Grill style pita sandwich
with sprouts, goat cheese, and balsamic vinaigrette dip.

About that mini food processor, it’s $40 at Amazon, and worth every penny. We’ve had one for years, and use it more often than its big brother. If you don’t have a food processor, you could mix the ingredients by hand, but we highly recommend having one of these little wonders in your kitchen. You’ll end up finding all kinds of good stuff you can chop.

Miss Marmalade

It’s winter at your English country estate. A fussy old lady is solving the murder of your wealthy father. You’re checking your stocks in the Times, while you munch on a piece of toast. Quick! What’s on your toast?

Butter?

Sure.

Marmalade?

You bet.

You are Master and Commander of Her Majesty’s Ship “Indefatigable”. The wind roars outside your cabin windows. You flick a weevil off a ship’s biscuit, and spread what across its dry surface? Marmalade? Ahoy!

The point is, if you’re English, marmalade seems to be a part of your story, if not…it’s just sort of a quirky jelly that most people don’t like. Why? We don’t know. Camri doesn’t like it, she says it tastes like children’s Tylenol, I love it, in the winter time it tastes like yummy sunshine. I decided I wanted to make my own. I checked into the history of the stuff on Wikipedia, then I found a couple of recipes online. All of them used seville oranges, which are hard to get in the US. You can order big cans of them, which would yield several pounds of marmalade. I don’t need several pounds.

I considered making a bunch and giving away jars, but it turns out, I don’t really know anyone that likes marmalade. Then I thought, “hey, maybe I should make it with regular oranges!” It turns out, seville oranges have more pectin in them, meaning that I’d have to add pectin to a regular orange marmalade, and get into funky canning. Plus, if there’s any chance that the oranges you use were treated with pesticides, you’ll end up having really yucky jam. You need to find organic oranges.

What is this all building up to? I totally failed. I didn’t make my own marmalade. This is a story about giving up. Sorry folks. I stone cold gave up. I bought a jar of marmalade at the grocery store and called it a day.

Despite my failure, I can still live out my marmalade fantasies at breakfast. If you haven’t tried it, I suggest you do. If I can get a couple more people into orange-y jelly, I can justify ordering a big can of seville oranges and make a few pounds of marmalade.